Escape-proofing
**I was going through a husky rescue website and came across this. It looked like an interesting method, but I don't know how well it would hold against a really persistent dog.**
Rolling pin method.
Someone that adopted a couple of huskies from us came up with the concept and it is quite the showstopper for a husky. Stop and think about how a rolling pin works, while you hold the handles, the outside turns around and around. By taking this same concept and say mounting a cable parallel with the top of your fence line, with support eye hooks at 10 foot (or less) intervals. Around the cable you would place 1 inch PVC pipe, around the 1 inch PVC pipe you would place 3 inch PVC pipe. Tighten up your cable and then your project is complete.
After the installation of this system, you husky may give you the look that you won a round, but they will never admit it. Every time your husky tries to climb over your fence, they end up rolling back off the fence into your back yard. (Imagine trying to do a pull-up on a bar that keeps turning back toward you, you would find something else to do quickly, so will your husky).
For Block Walls:
Parts needed:
� Angle irons/corner braces, typically found in the cabinet hardware section.
o Figure on one for every 5 linear feet of fence to be protected, minimum.
� Lead masonry anchors
o Two per bracket (I used 5/16ths., and bought a couple of sharp new masonry bits to make sure I got through the job!).
� Steel wire-rope (length of the fence)
o Buy a few feet more than you think you need, for cut-off and tie-down purposes. I splurged and bought the plastic-coated wire rope, a few cents more per foot; didn�t want to deal with a lot of rust on the wire in a short time. And, I chose the 3/16inch diameter; pick whatever makes you comfortable with the strength.
� Wire rope �locks�
o I bought the type that have a U-shaped double-ended bolt that runs through a small metal �V�� just find something that will allow you to lock down the ends of the wire rope and is strong enough to keep a Husky�s weight from pulling the wire loose and allowing the PVC to drop down to the fence top!
� PVC tubing (length of the fence)
o Plan on having leftover� better than going back to the hardware store if you run out, and it�s pretty cheap�
� � inch diameter for the inner roller
� 1 inch diameter for the outer roller
Tools needed:
� Power drill, with enough oomph to drill a lot of holes in brick/concrete/whatever your block wall is made of.
� Drill bits, of the size recommended by the lead anchors.
� Screwdriver (I would heartily suggest Powered) to screw down the brackets.
� Hack saw or fine-bladed wood saw to cut the PVC.
� Bolt cutters, or seriously powerful wire cutters, to cut the wire rope.
� Box wrench, to tighten down the bolts on the wire anchor locks (or whatever it is you buy to lock down the ends of the wire rope).
Mount the Angle irons no further apart than 5 feet, about 2 inches in from the yard-side of the block wall. I actually went with 4 foot lengths (cost a little extra PVC and a few more angle iron brackets, but gave me more confidence in the strength). Make sure the brackets on the ends have the �L� facing towards the center of the wire run for leverage�
Cut the PVC tubes into the appropriate lengths, leaving about a � inch- � inch leeway so the tubes can spin freely. Stick the wire rope through the top screw hole in the angle iron at one end of the run, and secure with the wire rope lock. As I did this, I figured out how to loop the wire rope through the top and bottom holes in the bracket, and place the lock on the outside of the bracket.
Thread the wire rope through the � inch PVC, then slide the 1 inch PVC over that, and feed the wire through the next bracket. Continue this process until the entire fence (do NOT make my mistake and leave a section un-protected because the dog would never go over that place!!). At the far end of the run, pull the wire taut through the last bracket and lock it down, keeping as much tension as possible on the whole thing to keep the PVC up and spinning free above the fence.
here are some pictures:
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_side3.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_side2.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_side1.JPG
For Wrought Iron Fencing:
This is pretty much the same process, except instead of using angle irons for the brackets you can use 5 inch TV antennae eye-bolts, or 5 inch carriage bolts with wire tie-down loops. Instead of mounting the brackets on top of the wall, I drilled parallel to the ground through the top bar on the fence, and suspended the PVC tubes 3 inches from the fence. It took extra nuts and washers to make them all stick out the same length; figure on one nut and one washer for each side of the fence for each bolt, as well as another nut if you using the carriage bolt/tie-down method.
pics:
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_Pins_front1.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_front2.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_front3.JPG
Rolling pin method.
Someone that adopted a couple of huskies from us came up with the concept and it is quite the showstopper for a husky. Stop and think about how a rolling pin works, while you hold the handles, the outside turns around and around. By taking this same concept and say mounting a cable parallel with the top of your fence line, with support eye hooks at 10 foot (or less) intervals. Around the cable you would place 1 inch PVC pipe, around the 1 inch PVC pipe you would place 3 inch PVC pipe. Tighten up your cable and then your project is complete.
After the installation of this system, you husky may give you the look that you won a round, but they will never admit it. Every time your husky tries to climb over your fence, they end up rolling back off the fence into your back yard. (Imagine trying to do a pull-up on a bar that keeps turning back toward you, you would find something else to do quickly, so will your husky).
For Block Walls:
Parts needed:
� Angle irons/corner braces, typically found in the cabinet hardware section.
o Figure on one for every 5 linear feet of fence to be protected, minimum.
� Lead masonry anchors
o Two per bracket (I used 5/16ths., and bought a couple of sharp new masonry bits to make sure I got through the job!).
� Steel wire-rope (length of the fence)
o Buy a few feet more than you think you need, for cut-off and tie-down purposes. I splurged and bought the plastic-coated wire rope, a few cents more per foot; didn�t want to deal with a lot of rust on the wire in a short time. And, I chose the 3/16inch diameter; pick whatever makes you comfortable with the strength.
� Wire rope �locks�
o I bought the type that have a U-shaped double-ended bolt that runs through a small metal �V�� just find something that will allow you to lock down the ends of the wire rope and is strong enough to keep a Husky�s weight from pulling the wire loose and allowing the PVC to drop down to the fence top!
� PVC tubing (length of the fence)
o Plan on having leftover� better than going back to the hardware store if you run out, and it�s pretty cheap�
� � inch diameter for the inner roller
� 1 inch diameter for the outer roller
Tools needed:
� Power drill, with enough oomph to drill a lot of holes in brick/concrete/whatever your block wall is made of.
� Drill bits, of the size recommended by the lead anchors.
� Screwdriver (I would heartily suggest Powered) to screw down the brackets.
� Hack saw or fine-bladed wood saw to cut the PVC.
� Bolt cutters, or seriously powerful wire cutters, to cut the wire rope.
� Box wrench, to tighten down the bolts on the wire anchor locks (or whatever it is you buy to lock down the ends of the wire rope).
Mount the Angle irons no further apart than 5 feet, about 2 inches in from the yard-side of the block wall. I actually went with 4 foot lengths (cost a little extra PVC and a few more angle iron brackets, but gave me more confidence in the strength). Make sure the brackets on the ends have the �L� facing towards the center of the wire run for leverage�
Cut the PVC tubes into the appropriate lengths, leaving about a � inch- � inch leeway so the tubes can spin freely. Stick the wire rope through the top screw hole in the angle iron at one end of the run, and secure with the wire rope lock. As I did this, I figured out how to loop the wire rope through the top and bottom holes in the bracket, and place the lock on the outside of the bracket.
Thread the wire rope through the � inch PVC, then slide the 1 inch PVC over that, and feed the wire through the next bracket. Continue this process until the entire fence (do NOT make my mistake and leave a section un-protected because the dog would never go over that place!!). At the far end of the run, pull the wire taut through the last bracket and lock it down, keeping as much tension as possible on the whole thing to keep the PVC up and spinning free above the fence.
here are some pictures:
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_side3.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_side2.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_side1.JPG
For Wrought Iron Fencing:
This is pretty much the same process, except instead of using angle irons for the brackets you can use 5 inch TV antennae eye-bolts, or 5 inch carriage bolts with wire tie-down loops. Instead of mounting the brackets on top of the wall, I drilled parallel to the ground through the top bar on the fence, and suspended the PVC tubes 3 inches from the fence. It took extra nuts and washers to make them all stick out the same length; figure on one nut and one washer for each side of the fence for each bolt, as well as another nut if you using the carriage bolt/tie-down method.
pics:
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_Pins_front1.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_front2.JPG
http://www.huskycamp.com/dogpics/i08Rolling_pins_front3.JPG
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