Impulse Control
So Jen and I were working with the Shikoku today and I realized something rather obvious. What I consider "rudeness" in our Shikoku is really just a lack of impulse control. I think maybe the same applies with their dog-dog social skills too.
I'm wondering if other Shikoku Ken owners feel the same and what you have done to teach your Shikoku better impulse control.
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I'm wondering if other Shikoku Ken owners feel the same and what you have done to teach your Shikoku better impulse control.
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Comments
Do the Shikoku make a distinction between dogs they do know and don't like Conker does?
Assuming we too love the class, Miko will take it next session.
Definitely gives me food for thought.
Jesse
I think consistency in training is important to control their impulses. I am big on using the word "wait" and being consistent that when I say that word, I mean it, they must wait and not move for whatever they want. If they move at all, they are brought back to the same spot, placed there again, I do NOT repeat the command. They have to learn that the 1st time I say something, I mean it. If they move again, the get put back again (and maybe an "aht" if they try to move). Etc, etc, for as long as it takes. Same with the word "leave it". It usually doesn't take very long because although shikoku may lack impulse control, they do have a high drive to do as their owner wishes. So that is VERY helpful.
I don't really find either of them "rude" per se, but then I also tried very hard to be very consistent and make them wait and not jump at everything they wanted immediately.
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Good to know!
I hate to always resort back to a book but I have found some good ideas in Control unleashed. There are some good things in there that could be modified depending on the specific issue. Although I have not worked with Shikoku the same principles should apply.
@ Jess: Impulse control in one area that tends to overlap in another so I tend to agree with you much of what you see in split second decisions dog to dog are impulsive as well.
@ Kris I completely agree with you in regard to consistency in training. I think it is one of the hardest aspects to training on the human side. Particularly when consistency in owner/handler movement is needed as well as visual signals. You do a super job from what I saw in your clips.
@ Brad again: When handling and proofing dogs that are turn on a dime bursting to move, to get the reduced impulses at times you have to sloooow the motion of rewarding way down once the dog knows what you are asking to get calm. The three d's have to be applied accordingly for the dog and stage. Although at the end of a session you can take the dog to its highest peak of zany as a slam dunk jack pot, food does not have to be the reward. Lots of one on one time in short sessions is most helpful. It takes a really laid back mentality and a right form of zen. If one is not in the zone it can really be tough. I know for owners who like to take action for reaction it can be the hardest. I include myself in this group, it certainly takes a lot of self control on the human side too, when training. Click to Calm is another book to investigate.
@ Jessica as you are going through the Feisty Fido class or when you are done would you be willing to highlight what the points were? I am curious how they were dealing with the issues. Do they stick with the book as a guide?
Snf
I think that you gave some excellent advice regarding slooowing the motion of rewarding and keeping the dog calm. I know, in comparison of my two dogs, Sachi is much easier to get pumped and overly excited. It is best for me to do a short training session with more intermittent clicks and/or rewards (variable reinforcement). Otherwise, she gets so wound up wanting the reward that she loses her focus. So I try to keep things slow and calm with her. Actually, now that she understands many of the patterns, she will get no rewards (might get clicks but no food) until the end of the training session (ie, 5-10 minutes tops). Keeps her calmer just getting clicks and verbal/physical (petting) rewards.
Kuma you can reward during training or after and he keeps his focus and is not overly excited or impulse driven.
I was thinking about it just now when I fed Kaiju and Cho Cho. When I took Kaiju over to his crate he sat before I opened it. This was "new", I always ask him to sit in the crate/kennel and look at ME (not the food) then I put the food down and release him.
Today tho, he sat outside the crate and I thought "Hmmm, ok, that's new" then I remembered Jen fed him the last 2 times and she probably had him do that.
So, yea, Jen and I need to get our routines synced up. Poor Kaiju is probably all kinds of confused.
With Chase's arrival, it's been a one-man show around here as far as the dogs go (I've been doing the dog stuff). Jen and I have always done these things as a team, but she's been preoccupied with Chase (which is totally understandable). Now that things are slowing down a bit with Chase we are working to use more of a universal team effort with Chase and the dogs.
Anyway, point is, we need to get back to following a consistent plan if we are going to be splitting the tasks.
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@JessicaRabbit - I'd love to hear (read) about you experience with that class. A thread would be great!
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In my experience, it's easier to teach a Shikoku what they can do then it is to teach what they are NOT suppose to do. It's a matter of a few consistent daily repetitions. For many other things, I just wait them out. You really have to be patience with such an impatience breed as Shikoku. Eventually they will learn what to expect from me (not necessarily understand). Even then though, they will need a little reminder at times =].
Classical [Consistency. Repetition. Association] & Operant Conditioning [using positive reinforcement (adding something of value) & negative reinforcement (removing something of value)] seems to work best. I also do "time outs" but more so to give the dogs a break from one another during times of their relentless and constant "bickerings" -cough- Kotomi and Shuran -cough-.