Toy Guarding

edited September 2008 in General
Another noobish question ...

Keiko is a horrible resource guard when it comes to toys - we've had a few 'incidents' where she would snap at us if the toy was taken without replacing it with something else (ie a treat, another toy..). Anyway, we've been actively working on showing her it's ok for us to take the toy and she's getting a LOT better about it. It's actually only been an issue in high stress situations like small dog social hour, but it is getting better.

Anyway... her FAVORITE toy in the world is her small yellow kong wubba. Last night at puppy class there was a small child carrying one of these toys around with her (... still don't have any clue why). I don't anticipate an issue, but I feel like I should probably mention to this new (new to us) trainer that it could be a problem if Keiko thinks that's HER toy. She's also had very limited interaction with small children - she tends to shy away from them when we talk until I give them a treat to give her.

Do you think I should mention something at the next class?? ... or am I just worrying too much... again :o)

Comments

  • edited November -1
    I am not the most experienced person with toy guarding, but it would seem to me that unless the toy the girl is carrying is offered to Keiko, it will not be a problem. Keiko's toy has her scent on it, and the one the girl has does not. That has been my experience. Even with toys that are the same as Bella's, but owned by another dog, Bella does not try for them unless they are offered to her. But then again, she is not a toy guarder.
  • edited November -1
    I suspect that you are both right, it probably wont be an issue. But, on the off chance that it could be, you might want to tell the trainer AND the adult of that child. Its just not worth the risk. If Keiko gets confused and thinks its her toy and nips the child then you could have a real problem on your hands.
  • edited November -1
    Geez... clearly I had to say she's doing better with the agression right before our worst episode yet!!!! We got her a Kong puppy teething thing and Belle decided to sniff it... well that was NOT ok - I had to get in the middle.

    /sigh

    I should know better than to give her a new toy without working with her first - so that I CAN take it without issue.

    Anyway, back to the original question - I think you're right Dave and Casey... it shouldn't be an issue, but I'd like them to know 'just in case.'
  • edited November -1
    Evan - I just want to give you my take on recourse guarding. I know you are in training class so I don't mean to give my opinion and confuse you [if it conflicts with a trainer] but I also want to make sure you are aware of some things... [also, you probably know this stuff so just ignore it if I'm patronizing you].

    It is ok for a dog to guard a resource from another dog, that is normal dog behavior - all of them do it, some at a more intense level than others, but they all do it. The amount a dog guards an object is based on how much he/she values that object. If your dogs are guarding toys from each other give them so many toys that they have no reason to guard any - same goes for beds and water. Dogs will learn that there is no reason to guard THIS bone when there are 5 other ones sitting 10 feet from them.

    When you say you "had to get in the middle", does this mean they were fighting? If so was there any damage done to either dog?

    Hope that helps.

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  • edited November -1
    There wasn't any damage done to either dog, however, Belle did pee and whimpered under my chair mid-'fight' - normally I just let things play out because there's never been anything very serious, I just got concerned. Belle is a big baby, and I should have known there was no reason to intervene, but her behavior was unusual ... as far as what I've witnessed.

    I was probably over-reacting when I got in the middle - it was just a spur of the moment decision on my part.

    I love our trainer - but I've never been told to 'ignore' this kind of behavior before. I think part of it is retraining myself to understand that what I learned in the past isn't necessarily what's best for the dogs. ... it has been 13 years since I've trained, and now that I look back, we did some crazy stuff (ie growling at the dog like you're the alpha dog...etc.) Obviously, dogs know we're not dogs - as I've been reminded recently by our trainer :o)
  • edited November -1
    For the most part, I agree with Brad. Resource guarding is part of normal healthy dog behavior; however, I take a "punishment fits the crime" attitude toward it. Lucy can be a bit overwhelming when guarding a resource. If the punishment fits the crime and Lucy gives a reasonable correction I will just ignore the behavior; however, if she pushes the issue beyond what I feel is appropriate, I claim the object from her and she looses her privilege with it for long enough that she moves on completely (usually at least 10 minutes). Sometimes I will give the object to Joey (which I know probably goes against all normal dog behavior). If she is really bad and goes after Joey even when he isn't showing any interest in the object, not only will I claim it from her, but I will also put her in a timeout.
  • edited November -1
    That's actually very accurate to what I do, Dave. Glad to know I'm not totally off course :o)

    I'm still a noob, so any and all help really is appreciated!
  • edited November -1
    I just quickly skimmed this article, but I think it might be able to give you ideas on how to help.

    I'm no expert, but I think the best thing you can do is have her do an obedience command before you give her any toy, give her food, before play time, etc. This lets her know you're willing to play / feed / etc., but only after she has done somehing for you. Just another way of establishing "who the alpha is." Maybe it'll help :O

    Here's my favorite of all Brad's videos, you can see how Jen has each pup sit before she feeds them, this is kind of what I'm talking about.




    Hope what I said makes sense lol ~
  • edited November -1
    Yea, I am with you guys - I mean I didn't mean to make it sound like no matter what just ignore it. There have been times when, for what ever reason, Loa, Ahi and Kona will argue the entire day over a piece of wood. I will eventually just take it away and get rid of it.

    My point really was [and it sound like I didn't need to make the point based on your most recent post Evan] that resource guarding is pretty normal and you should not over react to it. If you over react you make it a bigger deal than it is. Obviously you should do what ever you can to reduce the risk of a dog fight, but if they are just growling over a bone or something I would ignore it till it gets to a level that concerns you.

    Basically, you said you had to get in the middle, but it wasn't clear if you got into the middle of a fight or a growling session.

    I agree with Dave's approach, and I think time-outs are a great way to calm your pups down.

    sorry if I was confusing.

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  • edited September 2008
    It took me a bit to post my last post - I got side tracked... Osy, that video is cute - Lani was so little there. :o)

    I need to make an updated feeding video.

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  • edited September 2008
    I absolutely love that video Brad, it was the first video I saw of yours...I just love how Hilo is the first to run to his cage, but he looks so let down when he's not the first one fed lol ~
  • edited November -1
    Haha, Lani wants everyone else's food. :D
  • edited November -1
    I didn't really read the comments closely, but did anyone address this:
    "we've had a few 'incidents' where she would snap at us if the toy was taken without replacing it with something else"

    I don't think that should be ignored, we never tolerate the dogs snapping at the human hand taking a toy away.
  • edited November -1
    A few thoughts for you!

    1. Dogs aren't diplomatic and have no concept of "sharing". They will defend what is important to them AT THE TIME. This may fluctuate as Brad has already mentioned.
    2. Someone else's bone, chewie, bed is invariably better.
    3. In my opinion, children wandering around with dog toys have no place at a dog training class. This is as bad as a child walking through a dog park with a stuffed bear. Why take the risk? Definitely voice your concerns to trainer AND parents.

    When other dogs visit us, ALL toys are put away out of sight. Tuli really doesn't care who had it last, who owns it, or who's scent is on it. If she wants it, she will take a strange dog down. (Obviously she and the Laika Boys have reached an agreement...). Like Brad, I also try to keep a myriad of things laying around for them to choose from. It's not very feng shui, but we all make compromises LOL. That said, if the boys get up and leave their chewie or Kong, Tuli will sneak in and nab it. She will then sit around with 3 Kongs or 2 chewies! But, she will NOT bother them unless they are done working on the chewie.

    I DO expect my dogs to relinquish objects to me. You can accomplish this by breaking everything down into little components. It helps to hand feed their dinner and have them eat with your hand in their bowl etc. Some dogs find rawhides and the like much more "valuable" than kibble. Try to assess your dog's hierarchy of goodies so you can "one-up" them when you need to. Also get them very accustomed to you handling their mouths. Look in their mouth and check their teeth regularly. Brush their teeth. Roll their lips back and look at the teeth way in the back. Make it part of the routine so that they are comfortable with you invading their mouths WITHOUT any food involved. If they need medication, manually pill them and then give them a treat afterwards instead of just putting the meds inside the treat.

    While they are chewing something terrific, walk close by and drop a yummy treat. Something outstanding like a piece of hot dog or liver. Keep walking and don't look at the dog. Watch for "freezing", "whale-eye" or other tenseness. When the dog is relaxed and comfortable with this, pause for a whileat the dog's side after you drop the treat. Next, stop and touch/stroke the dog with one hand while you hand off the treat with the other. Don't bother the chewie. The idea is that the dog associates your approach while they have a delectable item with a good, non-threatening thing.

    Next "give". I find it easier to teach "give" or "out" with a non-edible toy first (like a tug toy or a stuffed squeaky toy) You can force release a toy a few times, and reward with a treat. Then give them the toy back. Add a command and progress so the dog voluntarily releases. Dogs usually learn this one fast if you mark with a clicker or something. They start literally spitting the toy at you so they can get the goodie! You can have a fun game of "take it!" and "give".

    Note: "Give" is slightly different than "leave-it". "Leave-it" denotes that there is something of interest that dog wants, but does not YET possess.

    Now you can combine the two. Start with a chewie that is lower ranking and the best treat you can muster. Ask for dog to "give" the chewie. There may be some hesitation as they attempt to generalize. Take chewie, give yummy treat and then return chewie. Practice a lot.

    Hope that helps. :)
  • edited November -1
    Very helpful posts :o)
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